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A Love or Hate Affair

Posted on August 20th, 2010  |  No Comments

Pinotage has come an incredibly long way in the last 60 or so years. Originally developed by Professor Perold in the early 20′s, its first commercial plantings were almost a mistake – Pinotage pioneer, P.K. Morkel of Bellevue actually wanted to plant Gamay at the time but none was available! A few years later, having daringly devoted several hectares of his farm to this brand new variety, his wine won the General Smuts trophy at the Cape Young Wine Show and Pinotage seemed set for success.

But no route to the top comes without a few setbacks along the way and Pinotage has been dogged by complaints about ‘strange flavours’ (bananas and burnt rubber), over-extracted fruit, over-oaked wines and a general lack of direction over the years. It wasn’t until 1991 that international markets fully acknowledged the variety’s potential when Beyers Truter won Winemaker of the Year at the International Wine & Spirit Competition with his Kanonkop 1989, and Pinotage became widely known as South Africa’s grape.

Beyers TruterThe 21st century saw the controversies continue with the development of the ‘chocolate/coffee’ Pinotages, first made by Diemersfontein and now a popular style with increasing numbers of wineries every year. The wine fundis loathe it, but the wine drinkers love it and, once again, Pinotage is right back in the public eye.

Whichever style of Pinotage you love – or dislike – it is clear that it is finally achieving the success for which its creator hoped. Thirty-five years ago, there were only two Pinotages chosen for the Nederburg Auction, but this year there will be seventeen top class wines with styles ranging from elegant, cool-climate examples from Southern Right, Diemersdal and Meerendal to rich, warming wines from Slaley, L’Avenir and Lanzerac to name but a few.

Professor PeroldIn addition (and perhaps to disprove all those sceptics who think Pinotage cannot age), there will be a stunning range of Heritage wines including one bottle of the very first Pinotage ever to go on auction at Nederburg – the Groot Constantia 1972. Other precious lots include one bottle of 1978 Simonsig (their 1972 was the second-ever Pinotage in the auction) and one bottle of 1975 Delheim. It’s a rare opportunity to own a little piece of South Africa’s ‘liquid history’ – Professor Perold would surely be pleased and proud of his invention’s journey so far!

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